A short ferry ride from Auckland's CBD, the seaside village of Devonport is a popular day trip for visitors and locals alike. As one of the first parts of Auckland to be settled by early pioneers, much of Devonport's architecture dates from the 19th century. Many heritage buildings, now beautifully restored, are still in use. This gives the area its special character and charm.
Here is a sampling of things to do when in Devonport that will interest the whole family.
Climb a Volcano
Devonport is built around two volcanic cones, Mount Victoria and North Head. The panoramic views from the tops of these mountains are spectacular; looking out to sea and the Hauraki Gulf; across the Waitemata Harbour to central Auckland and beyond; and seeing down into the heart of Devonport.
The extinct volcanoes are easily climbed (or driven) as there are roads to the summits. But it is not just the views that are the attraction. They are the sites of early Maori fortified villages, identifiable by the earthworks that are still visible. Dating from the late 1800s, there are bunkers and gun emplacements that were also used during the two World Wars, including an 8 inch 'disappearing' gun at the top of Mount Victoria.
North Head is famous for its network of tunnels, built as part of the Defence Force's response to the threats of invasions over the years. Some of them have also been used for growing mushrooms and many of the tunnels are now open to the public. Exploring them is very popular with children!
Discover Devonport's Heritage
Much of Devonport is built on the flat along the shores of the harbour so it is an easy walk to stroll around the streets to see the beautiful examples of heritage houses. These range from small, restored workmen's cottages to wooden villas with bay windows and extensive verandas to large, luxurious properties with beautiful gardens.
Victoria Road, the main street of the Devonport shopping area, has retained many of its Victorian and Edwardian buildings. An outstanding example is the Esplanade Hotel, a grand building built in 1902 in the tradition of English seaside architecture, on the waterfront opposite the ferry wharf.
Brochures are available from the tourist information i-site in the main street for a self-guided walking tour of old Devonport.
Go to the Beach
As Devonport is situated at the end of a peninsula, it is surrounded by beaches. The closest one is by the children's playground near the ferry wharf. A 10 minute walk from the main street takes you to Cheltenham Beach. This long beach with golden sand is popular for its safe swimming. From the end of the beach you can walk up North Head. On the harbour side of North Head, you can swim at Torpedo Bay.
Visit the Navy Museum
Devonport has long had a close relationship with the New Zealand Navy. A new museum has been built at the foot of North Head at Torpedo Bay to display naval artefacts and to tell the story of the New Zealand Navy, its past and its present. There is a cafe on site, a souvenir and bookstore, and activities for children to get involved in this maritime heritage.
Enjoy the Shopping and Cafe Culture
In keeping with Devonport's unique colonial atmosphere, the shops housed in the heritage buildings are not the ubiquitous chain stores that can be found in shopping malls. They are an eclectic mix of independent stores, many owner-operated. Several galleries showcase local artists' and crafts people's works. Shopping in Devonport is the chance to pick up a unique piece of jewellery or clothing, find a rare book in one of the interesting bookshops, or sample some locally made chocolate.
A wide variety of cafes and bars, most with outdoor or courtyard seating, can be found in the shopping area. Relax over a coffee or meal and soak up the atmosphere of this charming village.
Getting to Devonport
Ferries leave every half-hour from Pier 1 at Auckland's ferry terminal. The trip across to Devonport takes 10 minutes.
By car, take the Northern motorway across the Harbour Bridge, exit at Esmonde Road and follow the signs to Devonport. The journey takes 20 to 25 minutes from central Auckland.
Wendy Craig - Wendy is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in newspapers, magazines, anthologies and travel books in New Zealand and U.K.
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